Ayutthaya City

The three chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet.

 
Just 80 kilometers (50 miles) north of Bangkok is the old capitol of Ayutthaya (or Ayuthaya, or even Ayodhaya. No matter how you spell it, its pronounced ah-you-tah-ya.) The city became Thailand's capitol in the mid-14^th century and remained the capitol until the late 18^th century. About the time that Americans were tossing tea into Boston harbor, the Burmese attacked and sacked Ayutthaya.

The Ayutthaya period is looked on by many as the time when much of what is now thought of as "Thai style" was developed. In temples, this is when you see a marked transition from the Khmer style "prangs" to the bell shaped "chedi." While Sukothai further north is seen as the birth of the Thai kingdom, Ayutthaya is seen today as its high point. Around Ayutthaya are signs of the Japanese, French, Dutch and Portuguese traders that came to the Thai court.

Ayutthaya is a relatively low-key site. You can spend a leisurely day here, or a quick stop, all with relatively low pressure compared to many other tourist sites. From Ayutthaya you can quickly get on an expressway and be back in Bangkok in about an hour.

History & Orientation

Map of the old city environs. Click on one of the red dots to display detailed information about each sight, or see the summaries below.

 
The old city itself was founded in 1351 on an island about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) wide, formed by the confluence of the Chaophraya, Lopburi and Pasak Rivers. A wall once encircled the entire island, though only a few bits of it can be seen today. U Thong, who later became King Ramathibodi I, is credited with the city's founding.

The city grew rich on the produce of the land, as well as by exploiting expanding trade routes between India and China. The empire grew to control most of what is now Thailand, and by the time the first Europeans arrived in the mid-17^th century, Ayutthaya was a city of more than a million people -- double the population of London at the time. The city sat at the center of a network of nearly 140 kilometers of canals. This "Golden Age" of Siam came to a close after little more than 400 years when the Burmese sacked the city, setting fire to the temples, carting off the gold and leveling important buildings such as the kings palace.

What remains today are a few ruins scattered among grassy fields. The main sights are concentrated in the northwest corner of the island, while the modern town hugs the east coast. There are also numerous other attractions spread around the opposite side of the rivers.

Ayutthaya Sights

The main historical sights lie in the northwest corner of the island. These sights can easily be explored on foot or, better, bicycle. A number of other very interesting sights can be found on the banks of the rivers opposite to the city, but these are much more spread out. You may need to rent a motorcycle or samlor to explore these.

The Inner City

In addition to the ruins listed here, the inner city is also home to two or three museums worth a visit.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

The three bell-shaped chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet have practically become a symbol of Ayutthaya. The temple stands almost in the center of the main area of the old capital.

Wat Phra Ram

Just across the street from Wat Phra Si Sanphet is the towering prang of Wat Phra Ram, an excellent example of a Khmer style temple from the begining of the Ayutthaya period.

Wat Ratburana

Closer to the current city center, Wat Ratburana was built in 1424 to hold the ashes of the king's two older brothers, who killed each other fighting over the throne.

Wat Mahathat

The temple was built in the early days of Ayutthaya in the late 14^th century by King Borommaracha I. The story goes that the king had a revelation, and relics of the Buddha then suddenly appeared. The temple was built to house the relics.

Across the Rivers

To the north, west and south of the island are several temples dating from the city's golden age, or even before. The remains of the Portuguese and Japanese communities are also just south of the island, on opposite sides of the Chaophraya River.

Wat Phanan Choeng

On the south side of Ayutthaya, right where the Chaophraya and Pasak rivers join up, is one of Ayutthaya's oldest temples, and one of its most lively to this day. The huge Buddha image around which the temple was built was cast in 1324.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkon

At the southeast edge of town lies the huge bell-shaped chedi of Wat Ya Chai Mongkon. The chedi was built in 1592 by one of Ayutthaya's greatest kings, Nareusan the Great, to commemorate a victory over the Burmese won in the same year. The temple itself was established earlier, in 1357, by King Ramathibodi as a meditation site for monks returning from pilgrimages to Sri Lanka.

Wat Na Phra Mane

This small but interesting temple just north of the royal island has played a very pivotal role in the history of Ayutthaya.

Wat Phu Khao Thong (The Golden Mount)

Out in the flat plain of rice fields and fish ponds northwest of town rises the stark white chedi of Wat Phu Khao Thong. The name literally translates to "Golden Mount."

Wat Chai Wattanaram

Standing right on the river, Wat Chai Wattanaram is, in our view, one of the most impressive of the remaining monuments of old Ayutthaya.

Wat Phutthaisawan

Almost due south of the old town, on the south bank of the Chaophraya River, is the very old temple of Wat Phutthaisawan. With its freshly whitewashed classically styled prang, the temple is easy to overlook. Most guidebooks do, but don't you make that mistake. The temple, with its skewed architecture, is quite interesting.